WIP Fenris Mi-Go

My latest WIP two MI-Go's by Fenris, will this is the picture's of my first one put together.
Compared to other Mi-Go miniature on the market I like these the best.

Dark Young WIP

Here is a rather good rendition of a Dark Young of Shub-niggurath bye the makers of the game Carnevale.
This is a WIP as you can see I have used 2mm and 3mm magnets for the tentacles so I can easily away pack in my foam case and on the plus side I can reset the pose if I wish.

lurkers

Been awhile since I last posted, so here is some Lurker that I painted up for Strange Aeon.
The Mad Professor

Necromancer, I was thinking a Tudor time line Strange Aeon hence me painting this up.

These three are part of my Undead Lurkers the wee Mad doctor and two Blasphemous Constructs.

Stonehenge

This is what I been doing lately Stonehenge, I was given a sheet of dense blue foam 2`x 8`x 2``thick and it took awhile to think what was worthy of it but I came up with Stonehenge, the scale is 1/56, I got some measurements from the internet this was for the outer and large inner standing stones, the rest was guess work based on pictures from the net.
It had to be made to pack away so the flat stones are glued on and the standing stone have 4mm x 2mm earth magnets in them and the base, the magnets are set north and south so the stone only face one way the base was of MDF 12mm 3'x 26",I have left the very small broken stone out, these I may put in at a later date.
There was some liberty taken with gaps between the stone so I could place miniatures between them,if you have any question feel free to ask.

WIP Heresy Necromancer

This miniature is made bye Heresy and is called the Necromancer, you have a chose of the left hand holding ether a skull or the familiar bird, I went the skull, this was due to the way he was holding the bird, but it seemed a waste of a familiar, so I put him on his shoulder, all this was possible due to me soldering the parts with on no pinning, the right hand I thought about putting a dagger or sword in it, but I found a wand in my bits box and went with that.
Am in two minds weather to paint him flesh colour or the same grey as my Ghoul Cult.
the half-ling standing next to him is also made bye same firm I bought him just to paint up.

Things I really need to finish

The Tyranid Barbed Hierodule is from Forge World and was bought of EBay two years ago for around £48 and had damage done to it, after striping the paint off I found out that the oven cleaner I used to remove the paint had softened the glue so I got lucky and pulled it apart, I have give it a coat of black primer after doing the repairs with the green stuff.
Am in two minds weather to use earth magnets for the arms for easy removal to help pack it away when not in use or glue the arms on and pin.
There not a lot I can say about the casting from Forge World apart from I never found any filled in air bubble holes under the paint.

Both the Armorcast BattleTech was bought around 1995 and for the last 8 years been sitting in the garden shed, when I bought them they cost Mad Cat £70 and Vulture £65and are no longer in production.
Casting over all seemed ok with just the odd air bubble hole that can easily be filled in with green stuff, fitting the parts together was ok, and any tight parts could be trimmed with a hobby knife.
The one I started to paint up a few years ago is the Mad Cat OmniMech‘s ( Clan designation Timber Wolf).
The other is a Clan Mad Dog OmniMech (Inner Sphere designation Vulture) when I first did the legs on the Vulture one had a slight twist to it, as I used mainly instant clue way back then I was able to use instant clue remover to help remove the leg, so I ended up redoing both legs and resetting them with one slightly forward, it does till you in the instruction if you remove the stop pegs you can reset the legs from the standing to the walking pose, you can see this on the Mad Cat.

I have played Mech Warrior and Mech Commander on the pc and seen some nice cut scenes of battle techs, but these games wont load into my pc.
I no idea what colour am going to paint them, they ether going to be camouflaged or one colour, and the other thing is buying 28mm decals that would fit on them, I know you can buy clan decals but no idea if they will fit, plus I may not like the clans, my idea is to make them mercenary battle techs no clan badge needed or use what I like.

Other thing about painting them is what are they made from steel, aluminium, titanium, steel gives you the option of rust in the red to brown hues, aluminium just turns grey, and titanium does not corroded atoll, even if it was a compound of alloys you would still not have much corrosion.
Ill be starting with Vulture first if I make a miss I can easily restart, the Mad Cat has some what more detail and not so easy to redo.

Shoggoth (slave)

Tengu Models have brought this out a baby Shoggoth, the real Shoggoth would be rather bit large to put in a game and manufacture as is the case with most Cthulhu type monsters and creatures.
This is a really nice casting with no pin holes in it, the sculpture has put a lot of work into it and it has paid off, it also come with 4 tentacles that need pinning into place.
I have put the two miniatures next to it to show the size these are in the process of being painted up, the one on the left is a Hassel Free mutated human and the right one is from Tengu zombie range.

Cult De Ghouls

My Cult De Ghouls.
After reading up about ghoul skin colour I went with the gray, so I repainted the three flesh skin ghouls I had gray and bought three more, the axe, sword, meat cleaver, pitch fork was all made out of brass, crossbow and quiver I bought.
I have a new king the Wight with the cloak, if the rules allow a Shaman, Hag or Witch spell caster ghoul then ill use the heresy king ghoul, or even if they receive a ghoul cult leader ill use him.
All ghouls are Heresy and the Wight is from OTHERWORLD.

Paint Racks

As you can see in the picture I have two Progressive Engineering Solutions paint bottle racks they hold twenty Vallejo type bottles,am useing the racks to keep my inks and other common paints I use at hand, they come with robber type feet and stainless steel bolts and nuts, they are tight fitting you just need to run a model knife along the edge of the uprights to have a clean fit.
They do make other racks and if you have a idea then drop them a line, if I wanted to rack to be deeper and gain a extra row of bottles I could, but the space left on that same shelf will be used for other small items.

Conversion to Tcho-Tcho

Conversion I have done to Tengu Tcho-Tcho Models
Back row
Left side man I converted the Tommy Gun into a flame thrower gun and soldered flame throwers tanks on his back and used brass rod as the pipe, next man I give a rifle, I all already had a spare rifle with a hand moulded on the rifle just a case of soldering in place, middle man no conversion, next man I removed a club and give him a axe.

Front row
Left side this is same man as the rifle man but this time I made a bow out of brass rod for him and the arrow, next two are the same model one was giving a stick of dynamite and the other a torch.

Conversion to Ghouls

This is some conversion I have done to the Heresy miniature Ghouls.
Back row
The one on the left had no weapon so I give him a pitch fork it’s made out of brass rod, the one crouching had no weapon so I give him a meat cleaver, no way could he hold it so was just as easy to have it sticking out of the ground, the running ghoul is holding a meat cleaver but it being converted into a axe or replaced with a axe.

Front row
Left hand ghoul was holding a knife but made a buckler type sword for him from brass plate, next ghoul was holding a human leg removed it and give him a cross bow, and last ghoul was holding a sickle but replaced it with a brass made meat clever.

Serpent Lurkers Cult

Lurkers Serpent Men and Tcho-Tcho Cultist
This is the start of one of my cults the serpent men are from Strange Aeon and are made of resin the Tcho-Tcho are made bye Tengu Models and is of the highest quality.
The sword and crossbow on the Tcho-Tcho was conversions

Shelf extension to work top

To give my self more shelf room I bought a set off slide out draw rails from BBQ and set it at it’s maximum depth,this was not enough so lowered it a other 20mm, this shelf is mainly for painting my miniatures, idea being I can set up with the paint pots I need then pull self out and paint, this leaving the work top clear for other things.

Tools I use in my workshop

Tools I use in my workshop.
Dremel
One of my most useful tool is the Dremel, what I use with it is small drills bits for holes, high speed cutters for removing bulk and finishing, same with sanding bands, for cutting I use hobby craft saw blades these are very thin and leave a fine cut not much wastage, don’t have a use for grinding stones as these clog up to quick.

Airbrush
I use a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity two action airbrush, I have a 2mm,4mm nozzles for it and 2ml and 5ml cups and a fpc-air valve (fine pressure control) with a quick release mini coupling for removing the airbrush.
There Evolution would do the same job but I liked the look of the Infinity and bought it and am happy with it.
I use a small piston air compressor with a 3 litre tank and auto cut out switch, you can switch off the auto cut off so the compressor will run constant, at the airbrush end I have a in-line moisture trap air filter and compressor is quiet with a rating of 54db.

Soldering Iron
The soldering iron I use is a temperature controlled model from Maplin this is a 48watt iron with temperatur from 150c to 450c I use 150c for the small parts on a miniature and up to 450c for basing on to brass plate or two pence pieces, the solder I use is Javis of Stockport a low melt solder of 70c for white metal, you can also have it for brass to white metal, this bought from my local model shop.
You need to use a flux with the solder I recommend you use a liquid flux, I use “Baker’s” soldering Fluid No3 125ml to a bottle.
The price can be from £25 to £50 for a temperature controlled soldering iron, when I bought mine it was dropped from £45 to £20, Maplin seem to have these offers on from time to time, even seen the £25 model going at £9.

Hand Tools
More or less what every modeller uses , for my knife I use a Swann Morton retract away scalpel I buy the blades of the net at trade prices.
Model files, tweezers, model wire cutter and pliers, small set of vice grips, pin vice to start small holes before I use the Dremel, tin cutter, square, steel ruler, GW sculpting tool. Some clay shapers, for a vice I use the GW one that uses suction to hold it in place, the suction bit fill apart but vice is still useful, last I use a Rolson magnifying visor with inter changing lenses with a built in led light.